A camel heavy day

The day started like any other, breakfast in a ger camp of boiled eggs and rice porridge. We set off at 8.30am, driving towards the huge sand dunes of Khongoryn Els, which cut through the desert, 100km long and rising up to 200m high.

Our first camel encounter was a massive herd blocking our path on the dirt road. There must have been more than 60 of them. We got out of the car to have a look, and walked closer and closer, encouraged by a gesticulating Tugsuu. The camels seemed quite nonplussed but eventually took an interest and came towards us. They’re amazing animals, as majestic as they are goofy, and hardy enough to withstand temperatures ranging from -40 to +40 degrees Celsius.

In the afternoon we went to the dunes for a camel ride. The first camel Jack sat on wouldn’t stand up, despite the shouting and waving of at least three herders, and eventually he had no choice but to back down and choose another camel. Con found this very amusing and has the whole affair on video, so contact her if you’d like a copy.

Once airborne we had a beautiful ride, and it made us very excited for the horse trekking to come.

After our ride, we went to visit the camel herder in his ger. It is important to be respectful when you visit a nomadic family, and there are a few dos and don’ts.

• Enter the ger to the left, and never tread on the threshold

• Never walk or pass anything between the central pillars, these represent the husband and wife and nothing should come between them

• Receive things with your right hand, left hand on your elbow

• Always try at least a little of what you’re given, whether it be boiled dried yogurt, or a bottle of snuff

The herder was a fascinating man and we spoke at some length with Byamba expertly translating. He told us about his life, the communist era, the growth of tourism and what the future of nomadic life may be. He wondered whether due to the fuel crisis that people might go back to herding on horseback rather than the motorbikes they use today. An interesting thought.

He reckons we’re very lucky to be born human; you could easily be one of his camels, carrying tourists all day in the sun! He also said he feels lucky to be born Mongolian and to have lived his life in such a beautiful country.

We said goodbye and headed back to the dune, where we took off our shoes and climbed barefoot to the top. Byamba had warned us the going was tough in the sand but Con took this as challenge and charged off leaving Jack and Byamba panting in her wake. The view from the top was more than worth it: sand dunes rolling on for miles, mountains in the distance, the moon on one side, and the sun setting on the other. A real pinch-me moment.

The descent was much easier, and we ran most of the way down. We bundled back to our camp for dinner of mutton dumplings, with sand pouring out of our pockets.

A very good day indeed.